Waves

We rolled up back to the deserted point break. It was no longer deserted. Five other vehicles were parked, and people were out surfing. The scene had changed significantly. Waves were now rolling in at a nice steady period, and had a bit more size to them. I paddled out on my smaller board and got a few. I surfed until dark, resolving to put my larger board together in the morning. This was a good idea. The next morning was big. Large enough to make you think a bit before making a move. I paddled out without too much trouble, and spent the day riding the best waves I’ve had for a few years. The swell continued for the next 4 days, and we surfed to exhaustion. When it is on, you just have to keep going, since you don’t know where or when it will be this good again.